When most people think of holidays in Greece
they think of the Greek islands. The idea of all these islands, each
different from the next, the whitewashed houses and beautiful beaches
is an enticement to anyone. But lost in the commotion over Mykonos,
Santorini, Rhodes and Corfu is the fact that some of the most beautiful
and interesting places in Greece are not on the islands, but on the
mainland in places like the Peloponessos. Name the first Capital of
modern Greece. Give up? It wasn't Athens or Thessaloniki. It was Nafplion.
At the time the Peloponessos was all there was of Greece since it was
the first segment of the country to be liberated from the Turks in 1821
and in fact nearly went back to the Turks when the heroes of the revolution
began fighting amongst themselves. But such is life in Greece.
For many, the Peloponessos is the true
Greece and to them the narrow isthmus of Corinth is all that separates
them from a world of Albanians, Vlachs, Bulgarians and Macedonians,
who are all Greeks to us. But the Peloponessos can be said to be the
heart and soul of Greece and though it has been left off the tourist
map that was especially painted for Americans, it is as worth a place
to visit as any ten islands combined. From Myceneae to Sparta to Mistra
to the guns of Navarone, the Peloponessos has seen its share of history.
This is where Paris stole Helen from King Menelaous and where Agamemnon
set forth with his ships to Troy, only to be murdered in his bathtub
by his wife when he returned. It is a land of rugged mountains, green
valleys, the ancient games of Olympia, and a coastline with some of
the best beaches in Greece. What follows is a description of the different
regions (PREFECTURES) of the Peloponnessos with links to the houses
located in the specific prefecture.
PREFECTURE OF ACHAIA
The region of Achaia in the middle northwestern
section of the Peleponissos is named for the Argolid settlers who came
here after the fall of Myceneae. It was the first region in Greece to
embrace Christianity and was occupied in succession by the Franks, the
Paliologues, the Turks and the Venetians before it was liberated in
1828. There is evidence of all these powers in the cities towns and
mountains of Achaia.
Patras
The capital of the region is Greece's most
important sea link with the rest of Europe with ferries sailing to Brindisi,
Bari, Ancona, Venice and Trieste in Italy. It is also the primary embarkation
point to the Ionian Islands of Kefalonia, Ithaki, Corfu, Lefkas and
Paxi (Zakynthos is connected to Kilini in the region of Eleia). The
city is the largest in the Peleponissos and is divided into two districts.
The upper, which is at the foot of the castle, is the old city and has
a great many neo-classical houses. The castle itself has been turned
into a park with a view of the entire city and the Ionian Sea. The lower
city contains many old mansions, the Odeon, cafes, restaurants and lively
shopping areas. During the Carnival season Patras is known for its lively
celebration with costumes and partying in the streets like New Orleans.
There is a fine archaeological museum, an art gallery and the municipal
theatre, a replica of Milan's La Scala. Though Patras is more of a place
where travellers go through rather then go to, the upper square of Ypsila
Alonia, with its cafes and pine trees, is a popular place for the locals
to spend their days and evenings. It is worth the trip if you have time
to kill while waiting for a ferry. For food steer clear of the waterfront
and walk the streets until you find something that looks working class
rather then touristy. You can get to Athens by bus or train. Believe
it or not the bus is faster but in my opinion the train is more scenic
and enjoyable. There is a fast and a slow train. The slow one takes
five hours compared to three and half-hours for the fast and three for
the bus. The train takes you to a couple blocks from Omonia and the
city bus takes you to the bus station out in the middle of nowhere.
But if you arrive by ferry you ship may have its own bus, which may
get you as close as Syntagma square near the Plaka, so ask on board.
The coast of Achaia from Corinth to Patras is best travelled on the
small old coastal road rather then the new National road. Some of the
small villages on the way will be so tempting that you will want to
stop for a swim or a bit to eat if you are able. The town of Rio is
where you catch the ferry to Antirio on the mainland, a twenty minute
crossing.
Kalavrita
In the village of Diakofto the small Diakfto-Kalavryta
railway makes it's way through the Vouraikos Gorge alongside of the
river of the same name in what must certainly be one of the most amazing
train trips you will ever take, or at least the most impressive one
hour train ride you will ever take, especially in the spring when the
wildflowers are in bloom and the mountains are a fountain of colour.
The mountain village of Kalavryta is where the Revolution of 1821 began,
leading to Greece's independence from the Ottoman Empire when Bishop
Germanos of Patras raised the flag of revolution over the monastery
of Lavra. In December of 1943 the Nazis burned the town and murdered
all the males over the age of 15 in an act of reprisal considered to
be one of the worst atrocities of the war. The hands of the old cathedral
clock are stopped at 2:34 when the massacre began. On a cypress covered
hillside east of town is a white cross commemorating the dead at the
site where the killing took place. If you travel by car any of the side
roads you take in the mountains of Achaia should lead you somewhere
interesting, either a traditional village, an impressive gorge or waterfall,
a monastery or a Byzantine church. In winter there is skiing from the
main peak of Mount Helmos. A half-hour from Kalavrita is the cave of
the lakes, an enormous cavern 2 kilometres long with 15 miniature lakes
formed by natural dams.
PREFECTURE OF ARCADIA
Arcadia is a mountainous land of rivers,
running streams, deep gorges, Frankish forts, Byzantine churches and
monasteries, traditional villages and ancient cities. It is an area
visited by only a few determined tourists who are rewarded by one of
the finest coastlines in Greece. The capital, Tripoli is an agricultural
and commercial centre of neo-classic houses and an archaeological museum.
But the real beauty of Arcadia is found in the surrounding villages
like Karitena, called the Toledo of Greece (no, not Ohio: Spain) with
its narrow streets, stone houses and Frankish castle. Nearby is the
old Frankish bridge over the river Loussios, its gorge and the ancient
site of Gortys which can be reached on foot or by jeep. The town of
Leonideon is on the side of a tremendous gorge between two mountains
and has an excellent beach called Plakas. Visit the tiny village of
Cosmas.
PREFECTURE
OF ARGOLIS:
Though the city of Argos the regional
capital itself is a low key, agricultural town with little to offer
tourists except the lack of tourists which is an attraction in itself,
it still makes a good base for seeing the area though most people will
prefer Napoleon or Tolo because they are on the sea. There are interesting
ruins in the area like the Roman ruins with its giant amphitheatre,
baths and indoor theatre. The Fortress of Larissa has been added to
by nearly everyone who has occupied the area from the Byzantines to
the Franks, the Venetians and the Turks. The nearby Sanctuary of Apollo
and Athena and the Mycenaean necropolis are also within walking distance.
Mycenae
The Argolis Peninsula was the centre of
Greek culture from 1600 to 1100 BC under the Myceneans, until the city
was destroyed. The enormous stonewalls of the ancient city make one
wonder how anything short of a nuclear blast could harm it. Because
the stones were so massive, the Greeks believed the giant Cyclops must
have lifted them, thus the term 'Cyclopean walls'. The ancient city
is entered through the famous Lion Gate and contains the palace of Agamemnon.
If you remember your Iliad you will know that Agamemnon was the brother
of Menelaous, the husband of Helen, who was abducted by Paris and taken
to Troy. The combined Greek forces under the command of Agamemnon took
ten years to conquer the city of Troy. On his return home Agamemnon
was murdered in his bath by his wife Clytimenstra who had taken a lover
in his absence and was still smarting over the sacrifice of their daughter
in an effort to gain favourable winds for the expedition. Their son
Orestes then murdered her.
Nafplio
One of the most beautiful port towns in
all of Greece, Nafplio is a collection of Venetian houses and classical
mansions and the three fortresses of Palamidi, Akronafplia and the Bourtzi
that is on a small island in the bay. It was the first capital of Greece
after the war of Independence when the entire country was contained
in the Peleponissos, the Turks controlling everything else. The citadel
is actually three fortresses, built by the Venetians in 1714 and seized
by the Turks a year later. For those eager to climb the 999 steps the
view is worth it. Nafplio is a town of waterfront restaurants, outdoor
movie theatres, piano bars, cafes and a folk music festival in late
May and early June. The resort town of Tolo and the beaches of Karathona,
Asini, Drepano, Plaka, Kadia and Iria are near enough to take up your
days, awaiting the pleasures of the evening. For those who want to visit
Epidavros, Mycenae, Tiryns and other sites in the Argolis and beyond,
Nafplio is a good place to be based. There is a train to Athens and
a hydrofoil to Spetses, Hydra, Poros, Aegina and by connection back
to Piraeus (Athens). You can also make connections to points south.
Epidavros
The theatre at Epidavros is the best-preserved
example of a classical Greek amphitheatre and a person on the top row
can hear a conversation being spoken in normal tones in the centre of
the theatre, a remarkable feat since the theatre can hold 14,000 people.
The Epidavros Festival takes place here in the summer months with programs
of Ancient Greek Dramas.
PREFECTURE OF CORINTH:
The ancient city of Corinth, known at
least by name from the Apostle Paul's talks to the Corintheans in the
Bible, is now famous for its canal, one of the more impressive feats
of 19th century engineering. Periandor originally conceived the idea
of a canal through the narrow isthmus though at the time it was too
much of an endeavor to carry out. Instead they devised a paved roadway
that they used to haul the boats across on rollers. This method was
used until the 13th century. The emperor Nero attempted to dig a canal
but this chore was too much for him as well. A French engineering company
finally built it in 1893. It is still a wonder to behold and if you
walk to the middle of the old bridge that spans it you will know what
I mean. Yes, it does shake but it has for years so don't be alarmed.
Chances are it will not fall while you are on it. Acrocorinth is the
Acropolis of Corinth, which rises up from the ancient city. It is the
largest and oldest fortress in the Peloponessos. There are a number
of shrines and temples including the Temple of Aphrodite. My good friend
Stuart Thorne, a reknown archaeologist, has a special love for Acrocorinth
and visits frequently, like a pilgrim to a holy shrine. Probably the
most interesting part of the citadel is the entrance but the view from
Acrocorinth is simply incredible and if for no other reason this site
should not be missed. Though most of ancient Corinth has either disappeared
over the years or been destroyed by Earthquakes there is still a temple
to Apollo built in the fifth century BC. The Peirene Spring is said
to have been a woman transformed by the tears she shed for her son who
was killed by the Goddess Artemis. It still supplies old Corinth with
water. There is a museum on the site as well. Next to the Lechion road
that led to the ancient port is the garden of Apollo a courtyard with
some restored Ionic columns. Modern day Corinth is an important city
and transportation hub with a long attractive waterfront and a variety
of shops, restaurants, clubs and theatres. The buildings are mostly
concrete apartment buildings since the city was either destroyed or
damaged by earthquakes in 1858, 1928 and again in 1981. Most of the
action takes place around the large Platia Venizelos on the waterfront.
PREFECTURE OF ELEIA:
Olympia, on the banks of the Olfios River
is an archaeological site rich in the remains of old buildings and history.
The games began 'officially' in 776 BC and were held every 4 years though
there is evidence that they actually began long before. During the games
a truce in any wars or conflicts was declared and athletes competed
on the playing field rather then the battlefield. They were finally
ended in 393 AD by Theodocious I but revived again in 1896 by the French
Historian and Educator Pierre de Coubertin. They have continued to this
day and many Greeks feel the games should be returned to their ancient
site.
PREFECTURE
OF LACONIA:
When people think of the Peloponessos
the name of Sparta comes to mind and of course the valiant Lacedemonians
and their leader Leonidas who held the Persian army at Thermopile. Now
it is a largely agricultural area with high mountains, beautiful beaches
and small towns and villages all with their own charm. You could easily
spend your entire vacation here, swimming in some of the cleanest seas
in all of Greece.
Sparta
Formerly Athens' greatest foe and competitor,
Sparta is now an agricultural city on a flat plain where the Evrotas
River flows through it. Unlike the Athenians who built temples and massive
walls, the men of Sparta were considered the walls and there are few
ruins from classical times, but they include the remains of the ancient
acropolis, the sanctuary of Artemis and the tomb of Leonidas, whose
small band of Spartan warriors held the Persians at Thermopile. On nearby
Mount Taygetos, there are numerous traditional villages, well worth
a visit. The city of Sparta is modern with wide avenues and a big main
square and lots of restaurants. It can get pretty hot here in the summertime
but in the off-season it is an interesting place to be and the people
are extra friendly.
Mistras
The nearby ruins of Mistras, which are
being gradually restored, are worth the trip. Mistras was the central
town of the Morea (Peloponessos) until the Turkish occupation in the
fifteenth century. It was inhabited until it was abandoned in the 1820's
when the Turks re-took much of the Peloponessos after Ibrihim Pasha's
invasion from Egypt. The old city is rich in churches and is topped
by a Frankish castle. There are houses and mansions and many of the
churches have impressive frescos. The Pantanassa is a convent inhabited
by nuns, the only people living in the city of Mistras today. The Perivlepto
is a monastery built under a rock and contains impressive frescos. If
you keep climbing through the ruins of the old city you will find yourself
in the castle with a view of the valley below.
Monemvasia
The citadel town of Monemvasia on the
Eastern Peninsula of the Peloponessos is Greece's answer to the Rock
of Gibraltar. It's a walled city on the site of a giant stone mountain
that rises from the sea, connected by a narrow isthmus. The village
that is contained within these walls was in ruins twenty years ago but
has now been restored by the Germans who bought it one house at a time.
The modern town of Nea Monemvasia is full of tourists in the summer.
The nearby island of Elafonissos can be expensive since it caters to
wealthy Athenians but the beaches are great, as is the seafood. North
of Monemvasia is the town of Gerakas, which is approached by Flying
Dolphin through a long channel that seems more, like a river. It was
the primary source of the grey mullet eggs used at one time for tarama
but which is now made from carp. Because of its connection to Piraeus
and the Saronic Gulf islands by Flying Dolphin, Monemvasia is as good
as any place to begin a trip through the Peleponissos.
Githion and the Mani
The port of Githion is rich in fish taverns,
beautiful old Turkish style houses and a bustling waterfront, which
is the town's centre of gravity. There are long sandy beaches nearby.
Marathonisi, which used to be an island but is now connected, is supposedly
where Paris spent the night with Helen when he first abducted her from
King Menelaous of Sparta. There is an ancient acropolis and a small
museum in the town hall. My brother uses Githion as his base when he
travels around the Peloponessos. The inhabitants of the Mani peninsula
are so tough, the land so inhospitable, that it has never been conquered.
Even the Germans left them alone when they occupied the country in World
War II. All the more reason to go there for as frightening as they were
to the Turks and the Germans, the Maniotis are among the most hospitable
of the Greeks and their houses, like fortified towers, make up for the
lack of major archaeological sites. They claim proudly to be the direct
descendants of the Spartans and are known for their independence and
the fact they are impossible to govern. These are certainly my kind
of people.
The Diros Caves:
The Diros Caves are famous for their stalactites
and stalagmites are said to extend as far north as Sparta. They were
inhabited in Neolithic times and then abandoned after an earthquake.
Rediscovered in 1895, exploration began in 1949. The caves contain an
underground lake. The criticism is that for all the miles and miles
of caverns and passageways only a small portion is open to the public.
Still if you are nearby how can you pass it up. The whole area known,
as Pyrgos Dirou is famous for its towers, some of which are hotels.
PREFECTURE
OF MESSINIA:
Though very few tourists make it to the
southeast corner of the Peloponessos it is not because it lacks beautiful
beaches, charming port villages and impressive Venetian fortresses.
It has all of these and much more. The closest most tourists come to
this area is by eating the famous olives from Kalamata. When an earthquake
hit this town in 1986 more then 10,000 homes were destroyed but surprisingly
many of its older buildings and the impressive 13th century castle still
stands guard over the city. But Kalamata, despite the familiarity of
it's name and the charm of the people is not a prime reason to visit
the region, though if you are taking the train from either side of the
Peleponissos, this is the last stop. After an hour or so in Kalamata
your time is better spent in the little port town of Koroni with its
lovely Zaga beach and its castle, or the fishing village of Finikounda,
popular as one of the best windsurfing destinations in Greece, with
a string of fine beaches, restaurants, hotels and campsites. The town
of Methoni has a vast 13th century fortress surrounded on three sides
by the sea and the fourth by a moat. Inside the fortress is an entire
medieval town and you can literally spend hours wandering around.
The town of Pylos, one of the most attractive
coastal villages in Greece was the site of the battle of Navarino which
was not even supposed to be a battle but became the turning point in
Greece's war of Independence when the British, French and Russian fleets
under Admiral Codrington 'accidentally' sank 53 ships of Ibrahim Pashas
combined Turkish, Egyptian and Tunisian fleets. Though meant to be a
warning for the Turkish ships to leave the bay the end result is that
those ships are still there to this day and can be seen in the clear
waters. Though an embarrassment for Britain the end result of this misunderstanding
was that the Peloponessos was liberated and the Peleponessos became
the nation of modern Greece. The town itself has a central square down
by the waterfront and most life revolves around it. There are two castles;
one on each side of the bay and nearby is the Mycenean Palace of Nestor
one of the best preserved of all Mycenean palaces. Many of the frescos
and artefacts found here are now in the archaeological museum in nearby
Chora.
To the east of Kalamata is the Messinian
Mani with its clean pebble beaches, wooded slopes and rugged peaks,
beautiful villages with cobbled streets and flower filled gardens and
courtyards, castles, Byzantine churches and towers. There are campsites
along the coast as well close to some of the nicest beaches in Greece.
The villages of Stoupa and Karadmyli at the end of the Vyros Gorge is
in the shadow of Mount Taygetos on the gulf of Messinia and is known
for the wonderful trekking trails that enable those of sound health
and strong legs to explore the area in the way it was meant to be explored.
Descriptions
courtesy of Matt Barrett at www.greecetravel.com
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