DODECANESE ISLANDS

These islands are along the coast of Turkey, south east of the Greek mainland and are serviced by daily ferries. The trip is between 10 and 18 hours with Patmos being the nearest and Rhodes the furthest. Rhodes and Kos have daily boat connections with Turkey. The name Dodecanissos means twelve islands, but I have 13.

Astypalia:

Looks like two separate islands connected by a narrow isthmus. Most of the visitors are Greeks. The island is more like a Cycladic island then the Dodecanese chain which it is a part of. Beautiful geometric white houses and a labyrinth of a village crowned by a Venetian castle. Many cove beaches, it is remarkable that the island does not get more tourists. It could be the boat schedule. By my count there were only three a week last summer from Pireaus so check with a travel agent in Greece. The island is connected to the other Dodecanese but not every day.

Kalymnos:

Sponge fisherman's island. The main port of Pothia is lined with cafes and as home to Greece's sponge fishing fleet is a working town. There is a sponge museum there too. There are resort beaches around the island and several other small ports and towns worth visiting. There are small excursion boats from Pothia to the small islands of Nera and Pserimos and from the resort town of Myrties to Telendos where there are rooms to rent, tavernas and beaches. Kalymnos is connected by an almost daily boat from Pireaus to the other major islands of the Dodecanese chain and also a ferry and hydrofoil to Samos. There may even be an airport there by the time you read this.

Karpathos:

Another world. Don't come here to party but to watch and learn. Very traditional, especially the mountain village of Olympos which was isolated for centuries and still carries on many medieval customs and crafts. One side of the island is rocky while the other is more fertile and green. A line of mountains separate the two sides. Many nice beaches some with hotels and restaurants but tourism has not gotten out of hand here...yet. The port town of Pigadia is the island's capital and has hotels, restaurants and cafes on an active waterfront. The island has two ports, Pigadia, and Diafani. There are only a couple ferries a week from Pireaus and perhaps one a week to Rhodes, Crete, Santorini, Milos, Kassos, Halki, Paros, and Naxos.

Kassos:

A great island for walking and witnessing the vanishing traditions of Greek island life. One of the least visited islands in Greece. You can walk from the main village of Phry to all the other villages and beaches on the island or to the two monasteries. There are only 2 boats a week from Pireaus. There is an airport though with flights to Athens, Karpathos and Rhodes.

Kastellorizo:

Tiny island made famous by the film Mediterraneo, a must-see for anyone visiting Greece. Also called Megisti, the island has no beaches but has instead the rocky coves that make it one of the best islands for snorkeling. The island has a dramatic history and has been occupied by just about everyone and was even bombed severely during W.W.II. There are also excursion boats to the islets which surround Kastellorizo including the island of Ro whose last inhabitant, Despina Achladioti, died in 1982. Every day she would raise the Greek flag over the small island, clearly visible from the Turkish coast and she became a symbol of the Greek Spirit in the face of adversity. There are daily flights to and from Rhodes to Kastellorizo in the summer and ferries twice a week to Kalymnos, KOs, Rhodes, Symi and Tilos

Kos:

Very popular with Scandinavians, this island is rich in archaeology including Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantine and Venetian sites. Many of the beaches can be quite crowded just as they are in Mykonos and Santorini and the other popular islands, but not everyone comes to Greece to be alone. Despite the amount of tourists in the summer you can still get away, though a good guidebook like Lonely Planet is recommended. The interior of the island is still undeveloped, fertile and agricultural and best of all, largely flat so that riding bicycles (and of course motorbikes) is a fun way to get around. There are daily ferries to and from Pireaus and the other large islands of the Dodecanese, daily boats to Bodrun in Turkey and a couple flights a day from Athens. There are also several boats a week going to the smaller islands. If you are coming in the summer better book in advance (as anywhere).

Leros:

The main port of Laki is one of the best examples of Art Deco Architecture. It was designed by Mussolini's architects in 1923, though in defiance of the dictator, the capital was moved above to the village of Platanos. The rest of the island is green with stunning beaches and large bays. It is also the base for sailing trips to the coast of Turkey and the other Dodecanese islands. Daily or almost boat from Pireaus make the overnight trip and then continue on to the other larger Dodecanese islands. There is also a daily flight from Athens in the summer.

Nisyros:

This fertile island is actually a dormant volcano and even though there is little water it is rich in agriculture because of the mineral rich soil. The colorful port of Mandraki is host to and ancient acropolis, a monastery and a black stone beach. There is a thermal spa at Loutra. The volcano itself attracts many visitors and the villages of Nikea and Emboreios sit on the rim with spectacular views of the caldera. An excellent island for walking, the volcano has created and altered some incredible landscapes. There are several ferries and hydrofoils from Kalymnos, KOs, Rhodes, Symi, Tilos and Kastellorizo.

Patmos:

Quiet island at night but busy stop by day for Cruise ships. A Spectacular island with great beaches and landscape this is where the Apocalypse of John, or Revelations was written. The main town of Skala caters to the many people who arrive on cruise ships but is still a comfortable enough place to base yourself to see the rest of the island. A place you have to visit is the monastery of Saint John the Theologian above Skala and the Monastery of the Apocalypse built around the cave where John had his vision of the end of times. A popular island with spiritually minded people, there is no denying the feeling of sacredness here. There are daily ferries from Pireaus for the overnight trip, continuing on to Kalymnos, Kos, Leros and Rhodes. There is a daily hydrofoil in the summer to Ikaria, Samos and Fourni and another small boat to the picturesque island of Lipsi.

Rhodes:

Big city but stay in the old town and you'll love it. Fantastic castle built by the Knights of Saint John. Lots of nightlife. Check out the rest of the island which is agricultural with great beaches and some fancy resorts. Lindos is picturesque and packed during the season but go early or late and share it with the locals. Plenty of undiscovered spots but you will need a car to find them. Don't forget the Valley of the Butterflies. Well they are moths actually but nonetheless impressive. An island with a long and storied history and mythology you may remember it because of the giant statue (one of the seven wonders of the world) used to guard the harbor, so big that ships could sail between its legs. The statue is gone now but the harbor is a collection of fortresses and castles that will keep you fascinated. Rhodes is one of the most popular islands in Greece, especially with beautiful women from Scandinavia. Several boats a day during the summer from Pireaus do the overnight journey and a cabin is recommended. These boats stop in Patmos, Kalymnos, Leros and KOs along the way. As the hub of the Dodecanese islands, there are boats to all the islands in the chain as well as several a week to other islands in the Cyclades and NE Aegean islands and Thessaloniki. There are daily boats to Marmaris in Turkey, only an hour or so away so you can go there for the day. There is also a boat to Cyprus and Israel two times a week. There is an international airport.

Symi:

Beautiful bays and pebbled beaches, best reached by small boats that leave frequently. Daily boats between Symi and Rhodes and many people come for the day to eat in the restaurants and wander around the beautiful town. Symi is just seven miles from the coast of Turkey. The town of Symi is fill of neoclassical mansions in a variety of colors with a castle above. Another great island for walking. There are several ferries a week to Kalymnos, KOs, Kastellorizo, Rhodes and Tilos as well as a hydrofoil twice a week.

Halki:

Small island which caters to package tourists looking for an unspoiled island. For that reason it is tough to find a room. When the sponge in the area died out many of the inhabitants moved to Tarpon Springs Florida and the old Horio is deserted. There is a daily caique connecting the island to Rhodes and a hydrofoil once a week to Kalymnos, KOs, Nisiros and Tilos, but no ferries since there are no cars on the island.

Tilos:

A great island for walking, with deserted villages, dramatic landscapes, a spectacular monastery, a medieval castle and not crowded beaches. There are plenty of places to stay in Livadia and camping is permitted on the beaches. There are several ferries a week to Kalymnos, KOs, Kastellorizo, Rhodes and Symi as well as a hydrofoil twice a week.

Island Descriptions courtesy of Matt Barrett at www.greecetravel.com

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