The Cyclades group of island
are the most popular of the Greek islands and the ones you see in pictures,
with geometric white houses, azure seas and beautiful women (and men)
in bikinis or less. They are also islands with a long history and many
archaeological treasures, traditions, great food and nightlife. They
are all between 4 to 10 hours from Pireaus by ferry and half that time
with Flying Dolphin hydrofoils and the new high-speed ferries like the
Aeolian Express. Some islands have airports and Mykonos and Santorini
even have international flights.
Amorgos:
Few beaches but great swimming
off the rocks in the main port of Katapola. Many tavernas and nightlife.
Most boats arrive at inconvenient times, (like three in the morning),
which gives a traveler a strange first impression. The Northern port of
Agiali has nice beaches and is more of a resort area and is also reached
by ferry. The capital town or Chora is up in the mountains. The island
grows on you. Fantastic Monastery of Chozoviotissa built into the wall
of a cliff on the other side of the island from the port of is definitely
worth the trip. The small beach below is excellent for snorkeling through
a maze of boulders that have fallen from the cliffs. Popular with the
French and aging hippies this is a great island for walking. Easy connections
to Paros and Naxos, the trip from Pireaus is about 8 hours. The small
boat Skopelitos visits the Small Cyclades islands of Schinousa, Donousa,
Koufonisi and Heraklio
Andros:
Boats leave from Rafina and
take about 3 hours. The ferryboat goes to town of Gavrio. The Hermes Flying
Dolphin goes to Batsi which is touristy but fun. Lots of activities and
some great restaurants, particularly in the small traditional villages
in the hills above. The best place is the main town of Andros on the other
side of the island. No autos allowed in the village which juts out on
a peninsula between two long beaches. There is a shipping museum and an
excellent art museum there. Because of the wealth of the village tourism
is not encouraged. Good reason to go there. Renting a car is recommended.
This is a beautiful, green island that even has a small river or two.
Ferry and Catamaran connections to Tinos, Syros and Mykonos daily.
Folegandros:
Fantastic, they say, especially
artists and poets who go to marvel over it's dramatic beauty. It is small
and can fill up in the tourist season. The Chora is perched high in the
mountains and is alive with tavernas and bars. The ferry stops at the
port of Karavostasis where there are restaurants, hotels, beaches and
buses to Chora and island beaches. The Cycladic School is located here
offering classes in cooking, folk dancing and yoga. Folegandros is about
9 hours from Pireaus with several boats a week. The island connects with
Sifnos, Milos, Santorini, Sikinos and Ios a couple times a week.
Ios:
Arrive by day to a quaint white
cycladic village. By nightfall every house is a disco, bar, fast-food
or boutique. Not recommended for anyone over 25, at least for not more
then a day or so. It's like an international Daytona beach at Spring break.
If you are of college age this place is it! You will meet boys and girls,
you will get drunk and you will most likely sleep with them. If you are
older, married, and looking for a nice peaceful island forget about Ios.
If you are old and feel like you are young at heart this would be a good
place to test it. Great beaches by the way and more nightlife then you
can possibly use in one lifetime. Frequent ferry boats in the summer to
and from Pireaus make the 8 hour trip with connections to Paros, Naxos
and Syros. There are daily boats to Santorini and a couple a week to Sifnos
and one boat a week to Crete.
Kea
(or Tzia):
Quiet and traditional. Like
going to the most remote island in the Aegean, but it's so close to Athens.
How can this be? Try going there and you will understand. You can take
a flying dolphin from Pireaus but it leaves at 7:30 in the morning. It's
smooth sailing until you hit the Cavo d'Oro, the most treacherous stretch
of water in the Mediterranean, and then you start praying. Hydrofoils
are made for lakes and rivers, not rough seas. Alternative? Take the ferry.
But it leaves from Lavrio, an hour plus bus ride to a city with 75% unemployment
and is best known for being used as a stand-in for war-torn Sarajevo in
the film Ulysses Gaze, when it was too dangerous to film there. If you
get this far, stay in Voukari or Livadia. The village of Ioulis is a fantastic
labyrinth of white cycladic houses perched on the side of a mountain.
Great beaches, especially those that you can only walk to. Few connections
to the rest of the Cyclades.
Kythnos:
Very few tourists. Hot springs
at the resort of Loutra and great beaches around the island, which is
excellent for walking. Only 3 hours from Athens. On the way to Sifnos
so you can stop here and if you don't like it take the next boat out.
First island in the Western Cyclades ferry route which also includes Serifos,
and Milos.
Milos:
Another Volcanic island with
spectacular rock formations and hot springs. Bikes or car useful if not
essential. Slightly industrialized with mineral mines but don't let that
scare you away. This is a beautiful island with fantastic beaches like
Chivadolimni, Lagkada and Apollonia where you can take a boat to the island
of Kimilos. The main village of Plaka is made up of the cubic white houses
which the Cyclades are known for. The island is rich with archeological
sites including Christian catacombs, a roman amphitheater, Venetian castles
and museums. Those of you who took art history should recall that the
famous Venus de Milo was found here. For the story of my adventure in
Milos click on the above link. Daily boats to and from Pireaus connect
the island to Sifnos, Serifos and Kythnos. It's about a 7 hour trip to
Pireaus. There are also 3 boats a week to Ag. Nikolaos in Crete and one
or two a week to Folegandros, Sikinos, Ios and Santorini. The very small
island of Kimolos, accessible by daily ferry from Milos town of Polonia
and by ferry 3 times a week from Pireaus is quiet, has excellent beaches,
thermal springs and no gas stations.
Mykonos:
Expensive, decadent, and fun
for gays, straight people and families too. Intense nightlife with clubs
that never stop, and if you can't handle it there are frequent boats to
escape to other less wild islands. For a little culture there are trips
to the uninhabited ancient island of Delos and the extensive ruins there.
Plenty of excellent if not crowded beaches but people don't come to Mykonos
to escape but to party and people-watch. Bring money and credit cards.
See my review by clicking on the above link. Ferry trip is about 5 hours
from Pireaus and three from Rafina Catamarans and Dolphins do it in half
the time. Easy connections to Syros, Tinos with several ferries a day.
Also daily connections to Paros, Naxos, Ios, Santorini, Andros and other
islands during the summer. Also less frequent connections to Sifnos, Samos,
Ikaria, the Dodecanese, Crete and Thessaloniki. There is also an international
airport.
Naxos:
Another overlooked gem in the
Aegean, Naxos is big, green and may have the best beaches in Greece. It's
close to the popular islands of Mykonos, Ios, Paros and Santorini with
frequent ferry connections. Lively harbor town with restaurants, cafes,
clubs and shops. Rent a car and see the whole island. Beautiful valleys
that are like paradise if you enjoy walking, particularly the area known
as Tragaia. The best beach they say is at Plaka with other nice ones at
Agios Yorgos, Agia Anna, Mikri Vigla, and Kastraki, any of which would
be the prized beach on any other island. The fishing village of Apollon
is a popular location for day trips, with good seafood restaurants and
a giant unfinished statue of the God Apollo laying in the ancient marble
quarries since 600bc. The ferry trip is about 8 hours from Athens and
stops in Paros. There are daily connections to Mykonos, Ios and Santorini.
There are also less frequent connections to Crete, the Dodecanese, Ikaria,
Samos, Amorgos, the small Cyclades islands, Skiathos, Crete and Thessaloniki.
Paros:
Grand Central Station of Aegean.
Most boats stop here and you can make connections to the Dodecanese and
even Samos. Town is full of foreigners and bars and also internet cafes.
Head for the smaller villages or Antiparos if it is quiet you seek. If
you like to party then Parakia and Naoussa will suit you just fine. The
tiny idyllic fishing village of Naoussa is so crowded in the summer that
you have to stand in line to walk past the cafes that surround the port
but it's a great scene and worth going for Mykonos-like action without
Mykonos prices. The beaches of Paros though popular are also quite nice
and Paros is known as the windsurfing capital of Greece. Plenty of camping
too. The ferry trip is about 6 hours from Athens and stops Syros sometimes.
There are daily connections to Mykonos, Ios and Santorini and Sifnos in
the summer. There are also less frequent connections to Crete, the Dodecanese,
Ikaria, Samos, Amorgos, the small Cyclades islands, Skiathos, Crete and
Thessaloniki. There are also Hydrofoils, Catamarans, sea-jets and other
strange and speedy craft that stop at just about every island around.
The travel agencies in the port list the daily boats and this is about
the only accurate way to keep track of them all.
Antiparos:
The island has nice beaches
and cafes and is more relaxed then Paros. There is also the gigantic Cave
of Antiparos which is the most popular site on the island. There are ferries
connecting the two islands leaving every half hour or so from the town
of Pounta, plus excursion boats that leave every morning from Parikia.
Santorini:
Visually spectacular. Must
be approached by sea to get the full effect of sailing into a giant crater
so don't fly there and arrive before dark. Fira is very touristy, Oia
is a little quieter. The daytime action is at the beaches, Perissa and
Kamari. Good Raki and domatokeftedes (tomato croquettes). Ruins of Ancient
Thira are worth the trip if you are unimpressed by the most spectacular
sunsets on this planet. Most people want to stay on the cliffs overlooking
the volcano in Thira or Oia but if you have children and want to get a
good nights rest you may want to go somewhere less spectacular like the
village of Akrotiri where you won't be worrying about your children happily
playing on the edge of a 1000 foot cliff. Thira is a fantastic place to
visit but I would not want to live there. The ferry ride is about 10 hours
with stops along the way at Paros, Naxos and Ios and sometimes Sifnos.
Daily connections to Mykonos by ferry and the rest of the Cyclades in
the summer by Flying Dolphin. There are also less frequent connections
to Crete, Thessaloniki, Rhodes, Karpathos, Milos, Folegandros, Kassos
and Halki. There is also an international airport. Akrotiri is located
on the narrowest part of the island so you have the view of the volcano
and red beach and you can walk to the outer part of the island and swim
in the Aegean.
Serifos:
Poor neighbor of Sifnos. Relatively
undeveloped outside of main port. Nice beaches. Like Sifnos, Milos, and
Kythnos, for older travelers. The main town of Serifos is a beautiful
Cycladic village perched on top of a mountain overlooking the large bay,
the port , and several of the island's very nice beaches. Serifos is about
4 hours from Athens by ferry and there are daily connections to Sifnos,
Milos and Kythnos.
Sifnos:
Visually attractive and still
Greek. For the thirty and older crowd, single or married with children.
Apollonia, in the center of the island, has fun nightlife. Great beaches
all around the island. Fantastic food and wine. My favorite for twenty
years. Port of Kamares is nice combination of beach, restaurants and a
few bars all within walking distance. Stavros Hotel is great place to
stay with a view of the beach and harbor from your balcony. The cleanest
port in the entire Aegean. Houses and villas for rent all over the island.
Vathi is quiet with excellent food at Manolis Taverna. You can get there
by road or small daily boat. There are daily ferries doing the 5 hour
trip from Pireaus and there are daily connections with Serifos, Kythnos
and Milos. During the summer there are daily or almost daily connections
to Santorini, Paros, Naxos, Mykonos, Ios, and Syros by flying dolphin.
There is also a a ferry that stops in Sifnos on its way too and from Rethymnon,
Crete three times a week.
Sikinos:
Not ready for Prime-time. That
is more then enough reason to go there. Very little tourism, it is an
island of mostly fishermen and farmers. There are rooms to rent in the
twin villages of Kastro and Chora situated in the mountains and in the
quiet port town of Alopronoia. Several boats a week from Pireaus connect
Sikinos to Ios, Santorini, Folegandros, Milos and Sifnos. The trip is
about 9 hours.
Syros:
A working class island. The
capital of the Cyclades with a century old ship yard servicing ocean going
freighters and tankers, right in the harbor. Beautiful town, more like
a small city. Two or three of the best restaurants in Greece. Extremely
nice beaches too. I am convinced that the town of Hermiopoulis, will one
day be a popular destination in the off-season. The reason is the architecture.
In the late 1800's the town was the main port for Greece and is full of
old buildings, churches and mansions that have now been restored. It has
cobblestone streets and great cafes. If you love old buildings and good
food, come here. There are daily ferries from Pireaus and the trip is
about 4 hours. There are daily connections to Tinos and Mykonos and a
ferry that originates here goes to all the Cyclades islands doing a different
route every day. There are also Flying Dolphins and a High-speed ferry
from Rafina. On Tuesday nights there is a ferry to Chios and Lesvos, currently
the only connection between Lesvos and the Cyclades.
Tinos:
Beautiful island close to Mykonos
with excellent beaches, traditional villages, beautiful landscape and
a rich history. Perhaps the most spiritual island of all, the wonder-working
icon in the church of the Panagia Evangalestria attracts people from all
over Greece in need of a miracle and around the 15th of August the island
is packed with pilgrims, as is every boat going to Mykonos that stops
here. Hotels are so full that people sleep on the streets. But except
for the two weeks around that date, Tinos is a wonderful island and is
not only worth a visit, you could spend your entire holiday here and be
quite satisfied. And if you crave a little action, Mykonos is an hour
away. There are daily ferries from Pireaus, about 4 hours away and also
Rafina. Daily connections to Andros, Syros and Mykonos and two boats a
week to Crete.
Island Descriptions
courtesy of Matt Barrett at www.greecetravel.com
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